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Home » Cycling » Fit Recovery Tip of the Spring:  Clean You Brake Pads.  A Visual “Why”…

Fit Recovery Tip of the Spring:  Clean You Brake Pads.  A Visual “Why”…

April 2015
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On our Saturday jaunt down to Milford, on horrendous roads, I hit a piece of broken asphalt on the side of the road…  The guy I was drafting just missed it.  I wasn’t as lucky.  Afterwards, I had a gnarly scratching sound every once around the wheel.  It wasn’t much, and it wasn’t as bad unless under extreme braking loads, but it was there.

On arriving home and cleaning the bike (and my aging eyes not being what they once were), I cleaned both sides of the brake surface, spun the wheel and felt for imperfections.  I felt nothing.

On Sunday, the sound was back, but less obnoxious and again only under excessive braking loads.  Today, thinking it would take forever and a day to get the brakes realigned properly, I threw caution to the wind and took the pads out to clean and inspect them, thinking I may have picked up a piece of dirt and that could have been rubbing the aluminum seam, causing the noise.

Now, if you didn’t know, brake pads should be cleaned every now and again regardless of noises.  Small chunks of aluminum embed themselves in the pads and will wear the rim of not removed.  You’ll have to look close, but you’ll see a shiny piece of aluminum in the black pad, no bigger than the point of a safety pin (I had to dig out the reading glasses).  All that needs be done is dig it out with a safety pin or razor blade tip: 

The second, left side is where I saw the significant problem – the cause of my consternation:

As bad as that looks, I couldn’t feel any grooves – I caught it soon enough.  I dug out two tiny pieces of aluminum but those shadows were a clue to something much more sinister…  The grooves said that I did have a problem with my rim.  I put the pad back on and aligned it (finger tighten the screw, depress the brake lever lightly and position the pad, then squeeze the lever as if you’re braking and tighten the bolt taking care that the pad doesn’t move as you torque it down – you may have to hold the pad steady while you tighten the bolt that last quarter-turn).

Then I looked even more closely at the rim and found this:

The one in that first photo isn’t much but the two in the second photo are a pretty big deal. Notice I marked the rim with electrical tape so I didn’t have to worry about losing sight of the dings.  Fixing them is quite simple.  One of Mrs. Bgddy’s nail files did the trick.

A nail file works best because you’ve got a coarse and a fine grit – the coarse to remove the raised parts and the fine grit to finish the surface – and the rounded end means you won’t have to dig into the good part of the rim.

Now, you might think we’re done, but not quite.  In my case, I noticed that the center mount brake wasn’t centering properly…  It was too easy to move.  On checking the mounting bolt (the bolt is at the back/top of the fork, just under where the stem goes into the steerer tube).

Now I’m good to go.

Every once in a while, take your pads off and give them a little attention.  It’s not like your life depends on your brakes, eh?

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13 Comments

  1. Mark says:

    Two Words…Hydraulic Disc. Of course that is a WHOLE other post right?

    • bgddyjim says:

      I have hydraulic discs on the mountain bike but they’re limited on road bikes and they don’t make a Venge at all with disc brakes. There are a number of reasons for this, but the main one is simple: The Venge is an Aero Bike.

      • Mark says:

        Your Venge is an awesome. I was checking those out on Specialized site other.day. Only thing that put the damper on that was the 4 digits in the price. Haven’t got my melon committee to approve dreaming of a 🚲 with more than 3 digits in the price. Nothing wrong with anyone else having one. 😎

      • bgddyjim says:

        There’s a lot behind my story of buying that bike… It’s long though. Anyway, it was expensive but man, do I love riding it.

        If you decide to look into road biking after you’re squared away, look into a used bike from a reputable bike shop. I picked up my first road bike (a ’99 Trek 5200 – same model Lance won the TdF on) for just $750. I still ride it.

  2. Dan In Iowa says:

    Thanks for the reminder! This is an area I don’t take care of as well as I should. I’ve replaced my pads once and on Campy stuff, you can buy just the pads instead of the whole “shoe.” This will get checked tonight…..along with the bearings on my BOB wheel and some linkage on my motorcycle shifter!

  3. bonnev659 says:

    that is so true! I got my road bike used.. the former owner did not clean the pads and the rear wheel rims needs to be replace. i still have it as a training wheel but my other rear wheel will be my racing one

    • Same here, our roads are disgusting loads of grit, rubbish from the tractors coming out of the fields, gritting when cold etc. So a wee check every so often doesn’t go amiss.

  4. bribikes says:

    You would yelp if you saw the condition of my pads during the winter; little pebbles from the sand on the road were constantly caught in them and they wore down so much it was insane.

    The good news is it taught me to pay attention to them!

  5. MJ Ray says:

    If you wind the brake adjuster in temporarily to hold the pad in place, then you don’t need to squeeze the lever while holding the pad and tightening the bolt and it’s easier to do the job with only two hands.

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